a cura di Andrea Chemelli


Few places are so unique, fascinating, rich art, history and mystery like Venice ... and a few, at least over here, so inconvenient to visit, especially when there is not that of a few hours to do so. Not only inconvenient to reach and turn, but also because the things to see are so many and quality that is really hard to choose. I went there many times, both tourists and business (Venice has always been one of the hottest photo shoots), but it is virtually impossible to know every masterpiece and particularities: maybe not enough a life. so I will try to draw on my personal experience to give some suggestions to those who would want to venture out. I forgive the Venetians doc, which will run definitely a smile.

A - as "arrival": it can be reached in many ways, on the ground, air and water, but all in all the most convenient and cost remains the train. Then down and is already practically in the center. If you prefer the car, know that the Liberty Bridge (connecting Venice to the mainland) there is an insidious and efficient fixed speed camera, and beyond it all parking is dear: if you're not in a hurry I recommend to park in Mestre in one of the streets near the station (do not leave anything in sight!) and take the train, there is one every few minutes. Get there by boat is fascinating but requires great browsing experience: inland routes are marked by "catapults" (piles driven into the bottom), but it is easy to make a mistake, the backgrounds are low and insidious and mooring scarce and dear ... if you're sea dogs, let loose! Or, A as "high water”: if you go in winter, best to inquire, otherwise good footbath.

B - as a "boat": locally called "vaporìn", is the bus in Venice, It allows you to get virtually anywhere, It is always busy and quite expensive but there are various types of subscriptions, you can also buy them in front of the station. There are "direct" and other boats slower, they do all the stops: if you do not hurry and the weather is good, try to grab a place in the bow and enjoy the show. Or, B come “Biennale” (It is now underway to architecture). Or, come “bacaro”, see explanation to the letter "F"

C - as "churches": there are many and practically in each there is at least a masterpiece. Needless groped to list, if you love the genre equip yourself with a good guide and via! Or, C come "Venice Card", a card which entitles you to a range of benefits and discounts, interesting especially if you plan to visit several museums or if you stop a few days. or as "Carnival", really unique, a spectacular party in extended form to the entire city: visit it is certainly some elbowing, guaranteed!

D - as "Dorsoduro", is the name of one of sestrieri Venice, which it is not divided into neighborhoods like all other cities. They are called Cannaregio, Dorsoduro, S.Polo, S.Marco,Holy Cross and Castle. or as “Doge”: in all they followed one another 120, the first was Paolo Lucio Anafesto, appointed in 697, The last name was Ludovico Manin, deposed by the French 12 maggio 1797.

And - as "erotic": Venezia, rich cities and equally libertine has been famous for centuries for its courtesans and their suitors (just think of the feats of Giacomo Casanova). More than a thousand years of independence and commercial hegemony on the main routes of the time led to the Republic of enormous wealth S.Marco, and history teaches you how, in every time and every place, the amount of rich men is directly proportional to that of beautiful women and available. It seems that the famous masks were invented to allow gentlemen (and ladies) to shoot with impunity doing their business without being recognized.

F – come “fame”: sooner or later, walking through the streets and squares will hear the bites. We are, for better or for worse, in a city that lives on tourism, where the food supply is ubiquitous but almost always the quality / price ratio is very bad. An advice? Try the "wine bars", typical bar where you serve "cicchetti", tasty morsels of polenta, cod, anchovies, artichokes, abolished (Typical sliced ​​soft and coarse paste), folpetti (moscardini), sarde in saor (marinated sardines with sweet onion) and other delicacies. There are cute beyond the Rialto bridge, near the fish market. Together with cicchetti you drink white wine, If you order water there is the risk that you look bad. Or as "Florian", famous, historic and elegant cafes in St. Mark's Square, to sit at the table as a cost in a restaurant dinner.

G – come “ghetto”, the old Jewish quarter not far from the station, place full of charm and mystery, worth a visit. or as “gondola”, romantic very popular boat from anzianotte couples, mostly American or Eastern, often overweight and sometimes tinted hair, but all with bulging portfolio.

H – come “Hugo Pratt”, the great illustrator father of Corto Maltese, of which many adventures are set in Venice, in places really existed or still exist. or as “Harry’s Bar”, local historian not far from Piazza San Marco, famous for booze to Hemingway and Bellini cocktails: if we then go do not complain of the account ...!

I - as "boarding": Venice is a destination for cruises, In fact, it is common that the horizon is interrupted by huge ships, that emerge from above the sovrastandole houses with their size, quite in contrast to the surrounding architecture. But even that is now part of the landscape.

L – come “Lido”, which is practically the island on another island, famous for the film festival during which moviegoers (few but good), presenzialisti (many) readers of gossip and facebookdipendenti (many) They come together in hopes of seeing a preview of a few good movies (the first) or take a selfie with the star (all the others). It can be reached by car, but if you are romantic dreamers-board bicycle, maybe starting from Chioggia, preferably in good company.

M - as "Exhibitions" and "Museums": It'll be spoiled for choice. Before leaving click "exhibitions Venice" on Google and you choose your menu. An advice? Love Contemporary Art? Three amazing destinations within a few hundred meters? Here they are: Peggy Guggenheim Foundation, Foundation Emilio Vedova and Pinault collection at the Palazzo Grassi in Punta della Dogana, which offers a magnificent view of the Doge's Palace and San Giorgio Maggiore. While you're at, after so much modern art entered the basilica of Santa Maria della Salute, to view the paintings by Titian and Tintoretto: a flashback bad. In the same area, the highest level the Accademia Gallery ... but better stop here otherwise the list would stretch who knows what ...

For lovers of the world fashion, point out the exhibition dedicated to Chanel, from 17 September all ' 8 January at Ca 'Pesaro (Holy Cross 2076, tel. 041-42730892), historic building overlooking the Grand Canal, the National Museum of Modern Art and the Oriental Art.

N - as "not entered the wrong restaurant", if you do not want to risk the robbery and want to eat well, I recommend you download and read the free app "Italian Academy of Cuisine". It is a guide by the homonymous cultural institution, which has as its purpose the protection and enhancement of regional cuisine. The restaurants, broken down by location, category and price, They are regularly visited and reviewed by a delegation, absolutely non-profit: I can guarantee that I am part of. Or, N come "House numbers", that here are not independent way but for Sestriere, stuff to lose his head ... if you need to address to achieve a trust gps Google Maps, or ask for help from a true Venetian (it still exists some specimens).

Or - as a "shadow": Venetian bars in the glass of wine is so named. The name originates from the times when, in Piazza S.Marco, the wine peddler used to move the cart by following precisely the shadow of the bell tower, not to let it deteriorate under the sun the precious liquid.

P – come “Peggy Guggenheim”, American billionaire art lover, that in its Venetian residence, now a museum, collects an incredible number of masterpieces of the leading contemporary artists. Or as "Pinault, Françoise”, fashion mogul who at Palazzo Grassi collects an equally amazing collection, made up of installations inside a seventeenth-century building beautifully restored in 2009 by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando, in that 14 months of work achieves a rare example of refinement in balance between the ancient and the ultra-modern. Both mentioned (and recommended) under "M".

Q - as "very nearly jump to the next letter ..."

R – come “Rialto”, The most famous bridge in conjunction with the "sighs" (so called because those who rarely walked again saw sunlight, since that connected the ancient court with "weights") and the modern Calatrava, opposite the station, famous for the slips in the days of "caìgoea", namely the umidissima fog that in the winter months coats it with an insidious slippery layer.

S - as a "comfortable shoes", absolutely recommendable, or as “souvenir”: if you can not resist the temptation, You can get away with the twenty euro by buying a pair of slippers "furlane", absolutely typical and unavailable elsewhere, sewn with velvet of all colors by hand, the sole is coated with old bicycle tires (you find them by Pied A Terre at the base of the Rialto Bridge, or in a shop of footwear along the path that goes from the Academy to the Guggenheim Foundation, I do not remember the exact address ...). Or a "murrina", small glass object from Murano, if you make a visit to that island. Or a form as it "Eyes Wide Shut" has style (yes Ca'Macana, Dorsoduro 3172), o, raising the budget also well over a thousand euro, a costume fit for a Doge: I found by Nicolao (Cannaregio 2590, tel. 041-5207051), famous atelier, if you are passionate, certainly worth a visit.

T – come “Tintoretto” (nee Jacomo Robusti), e “Tiziano Vecellio”, two of the greatest Venetian artists. The first one can admire works at the Ca 'd'Oro, the Galleria dell'Accademia, the churches of St. Rocco, S.Maria dell’Orto, S.Maria Assunta (or the Jesuit), Santa Maria della Salute (Punta della Dogana), S.Cassiano, S.Polo, S.Trovaso ... of the second, in the churches of Santa Maria della Salute, St. Mary of the Friars, S.Maria Assunta, St. John Elemosinario, Ducal Palace, Accademia Gallery ... Or, come “Taxi”, which in Venice it is a speedboat: It is quite expensive, but if you are a group may be convenient, since it can carry up to 10 people and 12 luggage.

U - as "a moment's rest after hours of walking ...": back to the letter "F" and go to "bacaro" ...

V – come “Venezia”, it goes without saying…or "Emilio Vedova", at whose foundation is an ongoing exhibition of hundreds of drawings on a single wall about twenty meters, plus a series of large paintings, which they are shown by means of a very special gimmick on pulleys and rails to the ceiling, designed and built by Renzo Piano: a treat, In a historic warehouse for salt (recommended to the letter "M").

W – come www.venessia.com, Web site made by genuine Venetians, full of information and anecdotes. or as www.exibart.com, excellent reference site for exhibitions and events related to the art world: if you set a search with the words "exibart venice map shows" you will find an indication to date with the location and address of all the ongoing initiatives.

Z – come “Zattere”, one of the "fondamenta" the most famous and evocative (They are so called roads, or better sidewalks, overlooking a canal, while the internal streets are called calluses and sotoporteghi, and squares and squares). It is in the Dorsoduro district, the opposite side of the Grand Canal, There are art galleries, restaurants and many seagulls, here where everything has a special name called "cocai".

If you have followed me so far the game is done, Venice awaits you!